I was able to access the pool a couple of weeks ago. Since then, I had to replace pretty much all of the hardware of the host machine and install several host operating systems.
My suspicion is that one of these OS installations wrote a bootloader (or whatever) to one (the first ?) of the 500GB drives and destroyed some zpool metadata (or whatever) - 'or whatever' meaning that this is just a very vague idea and that subject is not exactly my strong side... //
I think I have found the root cause: Max Bruning was kind enough to respond to an email of mine very quickly, asking for the output of zdb -lll. On any of the 4 hard drives in the 'good' raidz1 half of the pool, the output is similar to what I posted above. However, on the first 3 of the 4 drives in the 'broken' half, zdb reports failed to unpack label for label 2 and 3. The fourth drive in the pool seems OK, zdb shows all labels. //
This did take a while indeed. I've spent months with several open computer cases on my desk with various amounts of harddrive stacks hanging out and also slept a few nights with earplugs, because I could not shut down the machine before going to bed as it was running some lengthy critical operation. However, I prevailed at last! :-) I've also learned a lot in the process and I would like to share that knowledge here for anyone in a similar situation.
This article is already much longer than anyone with a ZFS file server out of action has the time to read, so I will go into details here and create an answer with the essential findings further below. //
Finally, I mirrored the problematic drives to backup drives, used those for the zpool and left the original ones disconnected. The backup drives have a newer firmware, at least SeaTools does not report any required firmware updates. I did the mirroring with a simple dd from one device to the other, e.g.
sudo dd if=/dev/sda of=/dev/sde
I believe ZFS does notice the hardware change (by some hard drive UUID or whatever), but doesn't seem to care. //
As a last word, it seems to me ZFS pools are very, very hard to kill. The guys from Sun from who created that system have all the reason the call it the last word in filesystems. Respect!